What Size Strap Does a Vintage Rolex Submariner Take?

The vintage Rolex Submariner is one of the most actively collected watches in the world — and one of the most commonly misstrapped. The default assumption among first-time buyers is that any Submariner takes a 20mm strap, because 20mm is the correct size for modern Submariner references. This assumption is wrong for the most important vintage references.

Most vintage Rolex Submariners take a 19mm strap.

Which Vintage Submariners Take 19mm?

The core vintage Submariner references — the ones that appear most frequently in auctions, watch forums, and collector photography — all have 19mm lugs:

Reference 5508 — the earliest non-crown-guard Submariner, produced from approximately 1958 to 1962. The watch worn by Sean Connery as James Bond in the early films. 19mm lugs.

Reference 5512 — the crown-guard Submariner introduced in the early 1960s, produced with both meters-first and feet-first dials. 19mm lugs.

Reference 5513 — the most produced vintage Submariner, made from 1962 to 1989 in an enormous variety of dial configurations including gilt, matte, and tropical variations. 19mm lugs. The 5513 is the reference most commonly encountered in the vintage market and the most likely vintage Submariner to need a replacement strap.

Reference 5514 — the military-specification Submariner supplied to the British Royal Navy. 19mm lugs.

Reference 1680 — the first Submariner with a date complication, produced from 1969 to 1979. This reference is more variable — early examples have 19mm lugs, later examples transitioned to 20mm. Check the lug width on your specific example before ordering.

Which Vintage Submariners Take 20mm?

The transition from 19mm to 20mm lugs happened across different Submariner references at different points in the late 1970s and 1980s. References that consistently take 20mm include:

Reference 16800 — introduced in 1979 with sapphire crystal, this was the transitional model that standardised at 20mm.

Reference 168000 / 16610 — all late-production Submariners from the 1980s onward use 20mm lugs.

Modern Submariner (ref. 116610, 124060, 126610) — all current production Submariners use 20mm lugs.

If your Submariner is a reference in the 160xx or higher series, order 20mm. If it is a 5xxx reference, order 19mm.

How to Measure to Be Certain

If you are unsure of your specific reference, the most reliable method is to measure directly:

1. Remove the existing strap or bracelet
2. Use a digital calliper or a ruler with millimetre markings
3. Measure the gap between the two lugs at the point where the spring bars sit — not at the tip of the lugs, but at the inner edge where the strap meets the case

The measurement will be either 19mm or 20mm. On a genuine vintage Submariner there is no ambiguity — the lug width is machined to a precise specification.

If you do not have a calliper, the existing bracelet or strap will have its width stamped on the clasp or indicated on the original box papers. Rolex bracelets carry the bracelet reference number which can be cross-referenced to confirm lug width.

Why 19mm vs 20mm Matters

A 20mm strap fitted to a 19mm watch will be slightly too wide — the strap will bow outward slightly at the lug end and may not sit flush with the case. The visual result is subtle but noticeable to any collector who knows what they are looking at. More practically, the spring bars may not engage correctly in the lug holes if the strap's end piece is too wide.

A 19mm strap on a 20mm watch creates the opposite problem — the strap sits inside the lugs with a visible gap on each side.

For vintage Submariners where correct proportions and period-appropriate presentation matter, the correct size is essential.

The Best Straps for a Vintage Rolex Submariner

Nylon single-pass — the most historically correct strap type for a vintage Submariner used as a tool watch. The 19mm single-pass nylon in the correct colourway replicates the original service strap configuration. The black and grey combination for the Craig-era Bond look; the navy, olive and red for the Goldfinger-era look; solid black or navy for the cleanest operational presentation.

Full-grain leather — a 19mm vintage two-stitch calfskin in cognac or tan is the most period-correct leather option for a 1960s or 1970s Submariner. The two-stitch construction mirrors the stitching detail of original-era leather straps and suits the warm tones of a gilt or tropical dial particularly well.

FKM rubber — a 19mm FKM rubber strap is the most practical choice for a vintage Submariner worn actively near water. Modern FKM rubber at 19mm provides the same waterproof performance as any dive strap while keeping the watch correctly sized.

Tropical style rubber — a 19mm tropical style FKM in brown references the aged rubber of original 1960s dive straps — one of the most admired collector combinations for a patina-dial vintage Submariner.

All 19mm watch bands at CNS ship with quick-release spring bars and fit the 5508, 5512, 5513 and other 19mm lug vintage Submariners directly. Standard delivery worldwide.

Quick Reference

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For the full range of 19mm watch bands see the 19mm collection. For 20mm Submariner straps see the 20mm collection.