2026-06-09

Rolex Submariner Watch Straps — The Complete Guide

Rolex Submariner Watch Straps

The Rolex Submariner is the most collected dive watch in history and one of the most strap-discussed references in the entire watch hobby. Its proportions, heritage, and cultural weight make every strap choice a statement — and the collector community has strong opinions about what works and what does not. This guide covers every significant Submariner strap combination, from the historically accurate to the contemporary collector favourite.

Rolex Submariner Lug Width — Modern vs Vintage

Modern Submariner (2010 onwards): 20mm

All current production Rolex Submariner references use 20mm lugs:

Submariner No-Date (124060) — 20mm
Submariner Date (126610LN, 126610LV) — 20mm
GMT-Master II (126710) — 20mm

Vintage Submariner (pre-2010): 19mm

Vintage Rolex Submariner references use 19mm lugs — one millimetre narrower than modern references:

Reference 5513, 5512, 1680, 16610, 14060 — 19mm
Rolex Datejust 36mm vintage — 19mm
Oyster Perpetual vintage — 19mm

This is the most important sizing distinction in vintage watch strap buying. A 20mm strap will not fit correctly between the lugs of a vintage Submariner. Order 19mm watch straps for any pre-2010 Rolex Submariner.

The Most Celebrated Submariner Strap Combinations

Before the detailed guide — the pairings that the collector community consistently rates as the most appropriate and most admired for the Submariner:

1. Black single-pass nylon — the Bond-inspired combination. The Submariner's most famous cultural pairing. Sean Connery's Bond wore a Submariner on a striped nylon strap in Goldfinger (1964) — the image that made striped military nylon iconic. See James Bond watch bands.

2. Warm brown vintage two-stitch calfskin — the collector's leather choice. Warm brown full-grain calfskin with two rows of stitching on a vintage Submariner is the most historically resonant and most widely admired leather combination for this reference. See vintage leather watch bands.

3. Black tropical style FKM rubber — the collector's rubber choice. The basket-weave perforated rubber references the original rubber straps issued on Rolex dive references in the 1960s and 1970s — the most historically connected rubber for a vintage or heritage Submariner. See tropical style watch bands.

The Best Rubber Straps for Rolex Submariner

Black FKM rubber — the factory-specification dive strap. Fully waterproof, operationally appropriate, and the most versatile single Submariner rubber option. Suits modern Submariner references in active and smart-casual contexts. See FKM rubber watch bands.

Black tropical style FKM — the collector rubber choice. The basket-weave perforated pattern references the original rubber issued on early Submariner references before the Oyster bracelet became standard. On a vintage Submariner at 19mm or a modern reference at 20mm, black tropical style is the most historically connected rubber available. See tropical style watch bands.

Brown tropical style FKM — the patina reference. Brown tropical style rubber on a vintage Submariner references the aged, discoloured rubber of original 1960s-1970s dive straps — the "tropical" colour shift that collectors prize on original rubber. The most evocative rubber choice for a vintage reference or a modern Submariner worn as a heritage piece. See tropical style watch bands.

The Best Leather Straps for Rolex Submariner

Warm brown vintage two-stitch calfskin — the most widely admired Submariner leather combination. Full-grain calfskin in warm brown with two rows of stitching at 19mm or 20mm — the warm leather against the black dial creates a contrast that reads as both casual and knowledgeable. The vintage two-stitch construction is period-correct for Submariner references from the 1960s through 1980s. See vintage leather watch bands.

Tan calfskin — the most casual leather option. Light tan full-grain calfskin on a vintage Submariner reads as relaxed and characterful — the watch worn without formality, the strap chosen for its warmth rather than its drama. See classic leather watch bands.

Black padded calfskin — the smart-casual standard for modern Submariner. Black padded full-grain calfskin at 20mm on a modern Submariner for office and evening wear — the raised profile suits the Submariner's substantial case. See padded leather watch bands.

Oxblood or burgundy calfskin — the distinctive collector choice. Deep red-brown full-grain calfskin on a vintage Submariner with black dial and silver case creates a warm, characterful combination that reads as a deliberate collector statement. See leather watch straps.

The Best Nylon Straps for Rolex Submariner

Vintage Bond colourway — the most historically connected nylon strap for the Submariner. The navy, olive, and red tricolour stripe associated with Sean Connery's Bond in Goldfinger (1964) — on a vintage Submariner reference at 19mm this is the most authentic possible tribute to the original iconic pairing. See James Bond watch bands.

Black single-pass nylon — the most practical everyday Submariner nylon. Black ballistic nylon in single-pass construction for travel, active use, and casual wear. See Original nylon watch bands.

OD green single-pass nylon — the military reference. Olive drab nylon on a Submariner references the watch's connections to military and special forces use — a pairing that reads as operational rather than decorative. See military watch bands.

Submariner Strap Recommendations by Reference

Modern Submariner No-Date (124060) — 20mm Clean, minimal, no date complication. Three-strap foundation:

Black FKM rubber — diving and active
Warm brown vintage two-stitch calfskin — smart-casual
Black single-pass nylon — everyday casual

Modern Submariner Date (126610LN black / 126610LV green) — 20mm For the green "Hulk" bezel: green FKM rubber or olive nylon for a monochromatic combination. For the black bezel: same as No-Date.

Vintage Submariner (5513, 1680, 16610) — 19mm The most strap-discussed reference in collecting. Three-strap foundation:

Brown tropical style FKM — the patina rubber reference
Warm brown vintage two-stitch calfskin — the collector leather
Vintage Bond striped nylon — the Goldfinger tribute. See James Bond watch bands

The Submariner Colour Guide

Black dial, black bezel (most common):

Warm brown leather — warm contrast against cool black
Black rubber — unified, operational
Brown tropical rubber — vintage patina reference
Striped nylon — the Bond tribute

Black dial, green bezel (Hulk/Kermit):

Green FKM rubber — monochromatic, deliberate
Olive nylon — earthy, casual
Black leather — clean contrast

Black dial, blue bezel (rare vintage):

Navy nylon — cool tonal unity
Warm brown leather — warm-cool contrast

Frequently Asked Questions

What lug width does a Rolex Submariner use? Modern Rolex Submariner references (2010 onwards) use 20mm lugs. Vintage Submariner references (pre-2010, including 5513, 1680, 5512, 16610, 14060) use 19mm lugs. This is the most important sizing distinction in vintage Rolex strap buying — a 20mm strap will not fit correctly on a vintage Submariner.

What is the best leather strap for a Rolex Submariner? Warm brown vintage two-stitch full-grain calfskin at 19mm or 20mm — the most widely admired collector leather combination for the Submariner. The warm leather against the black dial creates a contrast that reads as knowledgeable and considered.

What is the best rubber strap for a Rolex Submariner? For a vintage Submariner: brown tropical style FKM at 19mm — the most historically connected rubber, referencing the aged original straps of the 1960s-1970s. For a modern Submariner: black FKM rubber at 20mm.

What nylon strap did James Bond wear on the Submariner? In Goldfinger (1964), Sean Connery's Bond wore a Rolex Submariner on a striped nylon strap — navy, olive green, and red, now known as the Vintage Bond colourway. CNS produces this colourway — see James Bond watch bands.

What is a tropical strap for Rolex? A tropical style strap is a perforated rubber strap with a basket-weave or honeycomb pattern based on the original rubber straps issued on Rolex dive references in the 1960s. "Tropical" refers to the warm brown colour shift that original rubber developed over decades of UV exposure in tropical climates. CNS produces tropical style FKM rubber in both black and brown — see tropical style watch bands.

Does a 20mm strap fit a vintage Rolex Submariner? No. Vintage Rolex Submariner references use 19mm lugs — one millimetre narrower than modern references. A 20mm strap will not fit correctly. Always order 19mm for pre-2010 Rolex Submariner references.

Modern Submariner straps — 20mm: FKM rubber | Leather | Nylon | Tropical style

Vintage Submariner straps — 19mm: Vintage leather | Tropical style | Bond straps

CNS Watch Bands is not affiliated with, endorsed by, or connected to Rolex SA. Rolex and Submariner are registered trademarks of Rolex SA. All brand and model names are used solely to identify watch strap compatibility.