2026-04-28
Best Straps for the Rolex Submariner | CNS Watch Bands
Best Straps for the Rolex Submariner | CNS Watch Bands
The Rolex Submariner is the watch that defined the modern dive watch — and remains the reference point against which every other dive watch is measured. It is also one of the most actively restrapped watches in the collector community. The combination of a 20mm lug width on modern references, a robust and water-resistant case, and a design that sits at the exact boundary between tool watch and status symbol means it suits an unusually wide range of strap materials and combinations.
This guide covers both modern and vintage Submariner references — because the two require different strap sizes, and because the combination choices that work best on each are meaningfully different.
Rolex Submariner Strap Sizes — Modern vs Vintage
This is the most important thing to know before ordering a strap for a Rolex Submariner. The lug width changed during the production history of the reference.
Modern Submariner (ref. 116610, 114060, 126610, 124060) — 20mm lugs. Standard spring bars. All Submariners from the ref. 16610 onward use 20mm lugs. This covers everything produced from 1989 to the present day.
Vintage Submariner (ref. 5508, 5512, 5513, 5514) — 19mm lugs. Standard spring bars. The most important and most collected vintage Submariner references — the non-crown-guard 5508, the crown-guard 5512, and the long-production 5513 — all use 19mm lugs. These are the references most commonly encountered at auction and in collector transactions.
Transitional references (ref. 1680, ref. 16800) — variable. The ref. 1680 date Submariner produced from 1969 to 1979 is lug-width variable — early examples use 19mm, later examples transitioned to 20mm. The ref. 16800 introduced in 1979 standardised at 20mm. Measure directly on transitional references before ordering.
If in doubt — measure. Remove the bracelet and measure the gap between the lugs directly with a digital calliper. The measurement will be unambiguously 19mm or 20mm. Do not rely on case diameter or production year alone on transitional references.
For a complete guide to vintage Submariner strap sizing see the vintage Rolex Submariner strap size guide.
Best Leather Straps for the Rolex Submariner
The Submariner wears leather with more authority than almost any other dive watch. Its polished and brushed case finishing gives it a dress-sport character that leather suits naturally — a leather Submariner is not a compromise; it is the correct expression of the watch's versatility.
Cognac vintage two-stitch calfskin is the most universally admired Submariner leather combination. At 20mm on a modern Sub or 19mm on a vintage reference, the warm cognac tone against the steel case and black dial creates a combination that references the watch's 1950s and 1960s heritage directly. This is the combination that appears most frequently in serious collector photography and watch publication strap guides — and for good reason. It is visually coherent, period-correct in spirit, and immediately transforms the Submariner from a sports watch into a dress-sport piece.
Dark brown padded calfskin at 20mm — the most substantial leather option for everyday wear on the modern Sub. The padded profile suits the 40mm+ case diameter proportionally and adds visual weight that the flat vintage two-stitch cannot provide for larger cases.
Classic black calfskin at 20mm or 19mm — the most formal Submariner combination. Black leather on a Submariner is appropriate for business formal and evening contexts where the watch is intended to recede rather than announce itself. The non-stitch variant is the most minimal; the classic flat the most versatile.
Tan suede at 20mm or 19mm — the most casual leather option. Tan suede on a vintage Submariner creates a warm, relaxed combination particularly suited to 5513 references with tropical or matte dials where the strap warmth echoes the dial ageing.
Burgundy calfskin at 20mm — a distinctive formal alternative for the modern Sub. The deep red-brown contrasts with the black dial and ceramic bezel in a way that reads as deliberately considered rather than conventional.
Best Nylon Straps for the Rolex Submariner
The Submariner and single-pass nylon have the longest shared history in watchmaking. The MOD-specification nylon strap was standard British military issue from the 1970s onward — worn on Submariners issued to naval and special forces personnel. James Bond wore a Submariner on a nylon strap. The combination is historically grounded in a way that no other strap type can claim.
Single-pass nylon — Original at 20mm or 19mm is the starting point. The CNS solid buckle — no spring bar in the buckle frame — is more secure than the standard buckle and appropriate for a watch worn as a tool. The most appropriate colourways:
- Black — the most operational choice. Solid black on a black-bezelled Submariner is purposeful and correct.
- Black and grey — the Craig-era Bond colourway, chosen specifically for the Submariner in Casino Royale. The most discussed Submariner nylon combination in the collector community.
- Navy and red — for the Submariner Date references with red dial text. The red accent echoes the dial colour directly.
- Khaki — for the most military-grounded presentation. Khaki nylon on a Submariner references the operational history of the combination.
Marine Nationale elastic at 20mm — navy or black for the most comfortable Submariner strap in active or warm-weather contexts.
Paratrooper elastic at 20mm — the most comfortable daily-wear option.
Z strap at 20mm — the five-ring nylon construction with the different-profile solid buckle. For Submariner owners who want the five-ring hardware visual without the added weight of a metal hardware strap.
Best Rubber Straps for the Rolex Submariner
The Submariner is rated to 300m — it is a genuine dive watch and FKM rubber is the correct material for active water use.
Tropical style FKM in black or dark brown at 20mm is the most collector-appropriate rubber choice for the Submariner. The basket-weave and honeycomb surface patterns reference the original 1960s rubber straps fitted to first-generation Submariners — the same rubber whose aged brown versions ("tropical" rubber) have become among the most sought-after original accessories in vintage watch collecting. Fitting a brown tropical style FKM to a modern Submariner is a direct nod to this heritage.
Classic FKM rubber in black at 20mm — the most practical active choice for diving and water sports.
Cut-to-size FKM with deployant at 20mm — precision-trimmed to wrist length, closing with a deployant clasp. The most premium rubber option for a Submariner worn in smart-casual contexts where no excess tail is acceptable.
Vintage Submariner — Specific Recommendations
The vintage Submariner references 5508, 5512, and 5513 benefit from period-appropriate strap choices that reference their original context. At 19mm the range is narrower than at 20mm — CNS stocks the full collection at 19mm including odd sizes that most competitors do not offer.
Cognac vintage two-stitch at 19mm — the most period-correct combination for a gilt-dial or matte-dial 5513. The warm leather tone echoes the dial ageing and creates a combination that reads as if the watch has always been worn this way.
Tan suede at 19mm — for tropical-dial references where the warm ageing of the dial and the soft suede texture share a relaxed, characterful aesthetic.
Black single-pass nylon at 19mm — the most historically accurate non-leather option for a vintage military-issued or service-context Submariner.
Brown tropical style FKM at 19mm — the most direct reference to original vintage rubber. On a 5513 with a tropical dial, brown tropical FKM at 19mm creates a combination where every element of the watch references its own history.
Recommended Combinations by Context
Modern Sub daily wear — black and grey single-pass nylon at 20mm.
Modern Sub formal — cognac vintage two-stitch leather or classic black calfskin at 20mm.
Modern Sub active / diving — black FKM rubber or tropical style FKM at 20mm.
Modern Sub collector choice — brown tropical style FKM at 20mm.
Vintage Sub (5508/5512/5513) heritage — cognac vintage two-stitch at 19mm.
Vintage Sub casual — tan suede or black nylon at 19mm.
Vintage Sub tropical dial — brown tropical style FKM at 19mm.
Frequently Asked Questions
What size strap does the Rolex Submariner take? Modern Rolex Submariner references (116610, 114060, 126610, 124060) use 20mm lugs. Vintage references 5508, 5512, and 5513 use 19mm lugs. Transitional references including the 1680 may be either — measure directly. See the full vintage Submariner strap size guide for detailed reference information.
What is the Bond strap for the Rolex Submariner? The James Bond Submariner strap is a single-pass nylon strap in black and grey — the colourway chosen for Casino Royale and Skyfall. The CNS black and grey single-pass nylon at 20mm is the correct equivalent. See the full James Bond watch bands guide.
What leather strap is best for the Rolex Submariner? Cognac vintage two-stitch calfskin at 20mm for modern references, 19mm for vintage. The warm cognac tone against the steel case and black dial is the most widely recommended and most photographed Submariner leather combination.
Does the vintage Rolex Submariner take a 19mm or 20mm strap? The core vintage Submariner references — 5508, 5512, and 5513 — use 19mm lugs. Order 19mm, not 20mm, for these references. A 20mm strap will be slightly too wide and will not sit flush with the case.
What rubber strap suits the Rolex Submariner? Brown tropical style FKM at 20mm for modern references — the vintage basket-weave texture references the original 1960s Submariner rubber directly. Classic black FKM for active diving.